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  Hadrian's Wall Path - 2006
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1 Wallsend to Newcastle 2 Newcastle to Heddon-on-the-Wall
3 Heddon-on-the-Wall to Chollerford 4 Chollerford to Housesteads
5 Housesteads to Greenhead 6 Greenhead to Banks
7 Banks to Crosby-on-Eden 8 Crosby-on-Eden to Burgh by Sands
9 Burgh by Sands to Bowness    

 

DAY 5 - HOUSESTEADS TO GREENHEAD - 26/05/06

 

The section from Housesteads to Greenhead is the best so far. It had everything including many classic views of Hadrians Wall as seen in many photographs - also some interest for movie fans at 'Sycamore Gap'. Although it was probably the hardest walking so far it was well worth the effort - helped for me by it being a beautiful sunny day with a gentle easterly wind. Housesteads, at the start of the walk, the most complete example of a Roman fort on display along the wall, is well worth a visit and the Roman toilets (currently out of order!) should not be missed.

From the car park there is a steep incline to the path. A slight detour can be made to visit the infamous "Murder House" where in the 1930s archaeologists unearthed the remains of two bodies, buried when the house was built, one of whom still had a knife in his back.

There are many well preserved sections of wall with visible remains of milecastles and turrets but even more impressive are the high cliffs falling sheer into Crag Lough from Highshield Crags. Crag Lough is a natural lake formed during the last ice age. Binoculars are useful here to see the swans and water fowl on the lough.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

View of Crag Lough and Highshield Crags.

Sycamore Gap

After leaving Highshields Crags the path descends steeply into what is known as 'Sycamore Gap' because of the large Sycamore growing there. Before the tree came into view I could hear an American voice shout "There's the tree!"

As I climbed out of the gap I asked the American lady what was so special about the tree and she excitingly told me that it featured in the movie "Robin Hood, Prince of Thieves" starring Kevin Costner. This is where Robin first encounters Guy of Gisborne and his men who are chasing the young boy, Wulf. Kevin Costner visited the tree on his way from the south coast to Nottingham (his map reading skills had some room for improvement!)

 

After 'Sycamore Gap' the next point of interest is milecastle 39. Here, a real commotion was going on. Several cows at the closed off entrance to the milecastle were bellowing loudly and high up on the far side several people seemed to be unsure whether it was safe to go on. As I got closer the cause of the noise became clear - a large bull had somehow crossed the wall and got into the milecastle itself. Whether the cows were frightened of the bull or had other thoughts I wouldn't like to say. Anyway they weren't interested in us walkers so eventually everyone carried on past the milecastle, giving the cows a wide berth!

Milecastle 39 after Highshield Crags

At Aesica Fort there are some interesting remains, particularly at the western wall. Towards the centre of the fort there is a stone structure, as shown in the photograph, but I haven't been able to find out what it is. Any ideas?

Next is Walltown Quarry where a section of the wall was destroyed by quarrying before attitudes changed regarding the historical importance of the area. Some good has come of it as the quarry area is now being developed as a very pleasant recreational park. After leaving the quarry it is less than a mile to Thirlwall Castle where, shortly before reaching the castle, I turned left off the Hadrian's Wall Path, across fields, to Greenhead to catch the Hadrian's Wall bus back to Housesteads. This was a very friendly service - the driver couldn't be more helpful in helping the passengers get to their destinations, including the American who was waiting on the wrong side of the road hoping to get to Carlisle .