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  Hadrian's Wall Path - 2006
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1 Wallsend to Newcastle 2 Newcastle to Heddon-on-the-Wall
3 Heddon-on-the-Wall to Chollerford 4 Chollerford to Housesteads
5 Housesteads to Greenhead 6 Greenhead to Banks
7 Banks to Crosby-on-Eden 8 Crosby-on-Eden to Burgh by Sands
9 Burgh by Sands to Bowness    

 

DAY 6 - GREENHEAD TO BANKS - 26/06/06

 

Although the scenery is much less rugged than the last section and the walking much easier there are still lots of interest with plenty of wall remains particularily at Poltross Burn Milecastle 48 and Willowford Bridge. Having parked at the Greenhead Hotel car park we rejoined the path at Holmhead Farm, just before Thirlwall Castle. The path by-passes the castle but a short detour can be made to visit it.

Just after Gilsland there is one of best preserved milecastles on the wall at Poltross Burn Milecastle 48, built on quite a steep slope. Here we stopped for a coffee break while contemplating the remains of a staircase which suggests that the wall was about 15 feet high at this point. Everyone seemed impressed with Ken's knowledge when he stated that the building could have accommodated a garrison of 64 men, the largest number possible in a single milecastle, until he owned up to having read it on an information board.

Before crossing the River Irthing there is a superb long section of wall followed by the remains of the Roman Willowford Bridge.

In Roman times, Hadrian's Wall spanned the River Irthing between Gilsland and Birdoswald by means of a bridge and the abutments are still visible. However, the river has changed its course over the centuries, moving westwards, and the most of the original structure has long since gone. The stonework here is the remains of the abutment which supported the east end of the bridge and which protected the river bank from erosion.

Nowadays the river is crossed using a new metal bridge constructed in 2001 using the same steel as Anthony Gormley's Angel of the North.

Next stop was Birdoswald where we took a break to have our passports stamped and have a quick coffee. Birdoswald stands high above a bend in the River Irthing, in one of the most picturesque settings on Hadrian's Wall . We passed around the fort itself but we could still see the remains of the Roman granaries.

 

We left the wall path above the remains of Lanercost Abbey. We had hoped to have a drink at the Abbey Bridge pub while waiting for the Hadrian's Wall bus only to find the pub was shut down. We filled in the time by walking to the Abbey for a look around the impressive remains.

 

The bus dropped us off at Greenhead where we went to the Greenhead Hotel for a few refreshments. It looked like the landlord was going to be inundated with coffee orders until someone suggested he should serve beer first - after all it is a pub! He readily agreed - it's where he makes his money.