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Hawes Circular via Cotterdale

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Date 15/10/06
Leader: Ken G
Distance: 11 miles
Weather: Mainly cloudy but no rain
Walkers 8
Parking: N/A
Map: Ordnance Survey OL19 and OL30
   

Route Summary - Hawes, Hardraw, Cotterdale, Low Rigg, Thwaite Bridge, Mossdale Head, Appersett, Hawes.

 

After being dropped off we walked in an easterly direction on the A684 following the one-way system through the town. At the end of the one-way system we turned left on to the Brunt Acres Road and soon after crossing a dismantled railway line we turned left onto a paved footpath signposted the Pennine Way. Soon this path rejoined the road then after crossing the River Ure we walked uphill then took a footpath on our left to continue on the Pennine Way . This led us into Hardraw where we stopped at the tea shop for an early coffee stop. Some of our party were concerned that this would leave us short of time for the pub (or coffee shop) in Hawes but they needn't have worried!

 

From here we continued to follow the Pennine Way walking uphill on a rough track until soon after the start of the access land we bore left, off the Pennine Way, to follow the path down into Cotterdale. Here, beside East Gill, we took shelter from the wind behind a dry stone wall to have lunch.

We then crossed East Gill and West Gill, walking across some boggy ground, then climbed on a rough path until we reached the lane leading to Cotterdale. After crossing the lane we took the footpath signposted Thwaite Bridge. This took us steeply uphill on an indistinct path where a bit of compass work was required, then steeply downhill through a wood to Thwaite Bridge.

Cotterdale, 'The valley with the huts' (Old Norse)is also the name taken by the lonely hamlet at the head of the valley. Being situated at the end of a narrow lane, it became the subject of a rhyme when three of its families were the Halls, Kirks and Kings;

Three Halls, two Kirks and a King,
Same road out as goes in.

A survey, taken in 1603, shows that six titled or wealthy men occupied houses in the hamlet. They were descendants of men involved in Catholic plots in the reign of Elizabeth I, and their ancestors are likely to have been given the houses for refuge during times of persecution. There is also evidence of an Iron Age settlement in Cotterdale, a sword dating around AD 50 was found here and is now in the British Museum .

Overlooking waterfalls at Mossdale Head

After crossing the bridge we crossed the A684 then rejoined the footpath which led us to Mossdale Gill where some impressive waterfalls could be viewed from the Bridge. At the farm buildings at Mossdale Head we turned left through the buildings then followed the path across fields, walking parallel to the River Ure, stopping for a coffee break below Band Rigg.

The path rejoined the A684 then took us towards Appersett where just after crossing the Bridge we turned right onto a minor road. Just after walking below an old railway bridge we joined a path on our left which took us across three fields to a farm building where we turned left, the path taking us to rejoin the A684 where we turned right to take us back to Hawes. Some of us took a short detour to buy some cheese at the cheese factory (or enjoy the free samples). Then some of us went to a coffee shop or looked around the shops while others went to The White Hart Inn to try out the local beer and chat about our respective walks with the other groups.