Route Summary - Beltingham, Briarwood Banks, Strother House, Staward Peel, Strother House, Beltingham. |
Our walk started at the charming village of Beltingham famous for the old yew trees in the churchyard and connections with the Queen Mother's family - many of the Queen Mother's relatives are buried in the Chuchyard. This was Ivor's first mid week walk and he couldn't have chosen a better day - a brilliant walk too. The route of this walk differed greatly than planned, turning into a wonky figure of eight, because we found the footbridge over the River Allen at Plankey Mill was blocked off and waiting for repair. Unfortunately we didn't find this out until we had reached the bridge.
Anyway, we walked north out of the village to join a footpath which took us past Burn House to join a lane (marked as the Ward Way on the map). We continued south and where the lane turned sharply to the right we took a footpath to our left which took us through Briarwood Farm then down Briarwood Banks to the riverside opposite Plankey Mill. Much to our surprise the footbridge was blocked off, bit of the bridge lying in the river, so we stopped for a coffee break while Russell devised a back-up plan.
Fortunately the alternative route rewarded us with some magnificent scenery - a spectacular gorge walk along both sides of the River Allen. We followed the path north along the bank of the river, snaking through the gorge, then after crossing the river using the suspension bridge downstream near Morralee Wood, returned down to Plankey Mill. Here we joined the lane taking us to Strother House where we turned right on to a footpath which lead us through woodland to a high ridge and the remains of Staward Peel, a fairy tale site for a castle.
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Just a few ruins remain on one of the most impregnable sites in Northumberland which has been in its time, a Roman temple to Jupiter, a fenced enclosure for Anglian settlers, a barracks for 40 light cavalry in the 14 th century, a castle for Edward II that he never occupied as he was deposed and murdered, adored by Queen Phillippa as her secret hideaway, held by the canons of Hexham until King Henry turned them out and finally, as a declining ruin, a base for a cattle thief known as Dicky of Kingswood.
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Taking a breather at Stawards Peel |
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We walked along the ridge, passing the fragmentary ruins of a gatehouse, continuing down through woodland to cross Harsondale Burn then on to Harsondale. Here we turned right on to a lane then soon afterwards left onto a footpath across fields to the wonderfully named Sillywrea then onto the previously walked lane down to Strother House and Plankey Mill. We then retraced our steps back to the suspension bridge stopping on the way for a coffee stop beside the river - no wind, bright sun and the sound of running water, what more could one ask for! |
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After crossing the bridge we turned right walking along the riverbank for a while before taking a footpath to our left. When we reached a lane we turned left, soon reaching Beltingham. Here we spent a while exploring the church including the leper's window and a 900 yr old yew tree. Historically Yew Trees were planted in sacred locations, the Yews in Beltingham could date back to Druid times and it has been suggested that St Cuthbert himself may have preached under the Yew or even perhaps planted it. It is thought that cuttings from Sacred Yews were taken to different sites all over the world, could the Yew at Beltingham be one of these? Probably not but it makes a good story! |
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Then we decided, just for a change, to go to a pub , this time in Haydon Bridge, for post walk refreshments. We had forgotten the tradition where new walkers have to buy the first round until Russell reminded us but by that time it was too late. I'm sure Ivor will make up for it next time! |
